Wednesday 9 September 2015

Concert: U2, Ziggo Dome (#1)

#1 for U2 in Amsterdam (this year), U2 concert #1 for me this year.. #41 lifetime. Yes, after nearly five years, I've been to another U2 concert - after over six years, I'm back in Amsterdam!

Having booked the tickets for last night and tonight, I set about booking accommodation and flights. I decided to take some of the hassle out of it by using Expedia, where I could get the whole lot done. Now, this year's concerts are in the Ziggo Dome - I hadn't been there before, but it's right beside the Amsterdam ArenA, where I did see them last. I noticed there was a Holiday Inn right nearby, so was delighted when I got a booking.

Flights and hotel booked - non-refundable, of course - and I realised the Holiday Inn I'd booked was on the other side of town! Blast. And the one I'd wanted was, of course, booked up by now. Ah well.. as I was researching transport just last night, I discovered that I was at least on a direct Metro line to the venue! Well, not so bad..

I took yesterday off, and had booked a lunchtime flight from Heathrow. I checked in online the day before - BA lets you do that for free within 24 hours of the flight, which is convenient. And I printed out the boarding pass, which usefully told me that I'd be leaving from Terminal 5 - a first for me. It was nice to be travelling to Heathrow off-peak for once.. had a seat the whole way!

Terminal 5 had a couple of surprises. The first was the conveyor belt for security, which has a different arrangement from what I've seen before - a belt where you prepare your trays to go through, and another that you move them onto when done. The second surprise was how big this terminal is. Still, even with all those shopping options, I had some trouble finding somewhere to pick up some roll-on deodorant - I'm travelling hand luggage only, and can't bring aerosols. W H Smith finally obliged, with a small stand of tiny toiletries.

After some really soft-voiced boarding announcements, we boarded - interestingly, priority was strictly given by card held; those of us who didn't have any priority cards were just boarded in a lump. I had a good seat anyway - a window seat, on the wing. Damn stuffy plane though - I couldn't wait to get the aircon working. And I was very glad I'd picked up one of the free newspapers on offer - despite the cabin staff trumpeting that we were leaving on time, it took so long to get started, backed up, and queue for the runway that I had time to read the whole paper before takeoff! I was mollified by the unaccustomed free food & drink.. I wouldn't have thought to order wine, but for the person across from me who did. And they had lovely lemon biscuits in white chocolate..

And so to Schipol, and a marathon trek to Arrivals. Thank goodness for travelators. I needed a train going into town that stopped at Sloterdijk, the station apparently right beside my hotel. I'd done enough research to know that the best value for me was to buy a separate ticket to the city, then an unlimited card once I got there - there is one that includes the journey from the airport, but it works on the calendar day rather than on a 24-hour basis, so unless you get it in the morning you don't get the value. So I got a single ticket, valid to anywhere in Amsterdam, and after some perusal of timetables, finally found that trains to Sloterdijk go from Platform 3.

This is where the fun started. I knew I needed to touch the card off a reader, but couldn't see one. I'd just missed a train, and the next didn't go for about 10 minutes, so I had a look around and decided to try upstairs, where I'd come in, for a reader. And there they were! Touched it, and went down again to wait.

I was waiting for the 4:10. After a while, a phrase came up for that train that didn't look good - sure enough, it wasn't running. Never mind, there was another at 4:14 that said it was stopping at Sloterdijk. And then this conductor comes along and tells us that the train on the opposite platform was headed to Sloterdijk (Zloterdak, it's pronounced). Fine, and I got on. And was still waiting for it to pull away when the train I'd been waiting for arrived at the other platform, took on passengers, and left again. Blast!

Eventually, there was an announcement on the train I was now on - in Dutch - and everyone made exasperated sounds and got off. So did I. Then a train to Centraal arrived at the other platform. It didn't say anything about intermediate stops, though. And then our friend the conductor came along and announced that this train would go to Sloterdijk! Cool, and I got on. And as we were waiting on that one, sure enough, the one I'd just got off pulled away.. destination Sloterdijk..

When we finally pulled away - really, I'd had visions of spending the whole evening in the airport - and headed into town, it duly became apparent that this was a non-stop. And so I sailed through Sloterdijk and straight into the city centre. Where my first task was to get an unlimited city travel ticket - the guide book had said they have seven-day ones, but I couldn't see that option on the machine, so just got a three-day. Not bad value, at €16.50. Now, how to get to Sloterdijk? Well, there isn't a direct Metro option, but I grabbed a free Metro map at the info desk and determined that I could do it by transfer. And this being easier than figuring out trams and buses, that's what I did - doubtless spending a lot longer than I needed to, but never mind. That blasted conductor cost me a solid hour!

It was rush hour by now, but not half as crowded as the London equivalent, so that was ok. And I got off at Sloterdijk, relieved, and within sight of the hotel. Checked in (fortunately, she didn't offer me the selfie stick she'd given to the chap before me!), got a lovely, spacious room, and am very grateful for the free Wi-Fi. Although it does have a tendency to cut out.

Well, I freshened up and headed for the Metro again. Now, the concert ticket said the start time was at 7, but I got an email on Monday to say that it had been switched to 8 - for all concerts. Much more sensible, and I was relieved - I'd never make it for 7 at this stage. And there's no support for this tour, so start time is when U2 comes on. Of course, part of me was having paranoid terrors about this being a hoax mail.. but then, when has U2 ever started before 8? My long Metro journey began, and I debated with myself whether to get off at Duivendrecht, as suggested on the email, or at the next stop, Strandvliet, as suggested by Google maps. I remembered getting off at Duivendrecht last time, with the crowd. This time, however, there was no crowd, and I trusted Google Maps and stayed on to Strandvliet.

Now there was a crowd to follow, and I did - turning right on the platform, and right from the station, it was looking like the Streetview I'd seen - God bless Streetview! In due course, we passed the parking area for the tour lorries and coaches. It's always a spectacular sight in itself, all the lorries and coaches in dramatic black. I had a few gos at counting them - my final tally was 22 articulated lorries and 7 tour coaches - one attached to a generator (and had smoke billowing from it when we passed on our way back - I guess they were cooking up a late-night dinner).

Hang a left around this lorry park, and the Amsterdam ArenA and Ziggo Dome are before you - the arena to the left, the Ziggo Dome a black, boxy building to the right, on which ads are displayed. Now the crowds converged, and my excitement was growing. I could barely breathe as I made my way towards them.. such a long time since I'd seen this band. Checking my ticket, I saw that I needed the "Zuid" (South) side, so joined that queue. There was also one for members, with a doorman in a purple overcoat and top hat, one for Red Zone, one for floor, one for "Noord" (North). And my ticket was eventually scanned, and after the obligatory bag check (no food or drink), I was in!

A stand selling tour books - but I have never found them worth the money, just full of artsy photos. A stand to join the One foundation (founded by Bono). You could pay to have a professional photo taken in front of a giant i+e poster, with the money going to One. I went upstairs, where the entrances to the auditorium were.

Mayhem! Crowds thronged everywhere. The merchandising stands looked interesting, with some unusual stuff (albeit the t-shirts are a bit more expensive than the website, at €35 each) - I must get there when they open this evening, to try and have a proper look - the crowds were too thick last night, and I didn't have much time. Besides, I hadn't had time for dinner, and I was starving. Hallelujah, I came across a food stall, and asked for a sausage roll (XL) - only to discover that they only take tokens! The same is true of the bars - it's only the merchandising stands that take cash. Rip-off!! No wonder there were such queues at what I'd thought were cash machines - they were token machines! Not wanting to use my credit card, which I wasn't sure would have been activated yet for use here yet - I notified the bank a bit late - I queued at the machine that took cash. I gave up completely when I discovered that they don't take coins, and don't give change. The smallest note I had was a €50, and I certainly didn't intend giving them that much..

So, hungrily, I took my seat. I'll make sure to eat before I go this evening.. And then it transpired that my seat was shoved right over in the corner, and among a bunch of middle-aged people. Hmm.. not a great indicator of wild abandon. Anyway, my view was terrific - the stage, cleverly designed, forms an i-e shape, with the "i" comprising a traditional. rectangular stage at one end, an "e" shape at the other (pretty round) and a catwalk between them, above which is suspended a wire frame that transforms during the concert into a vidi-wall. The only sign of life so far was a large, lit lightbulb, suspended above the "i" stage. This is another image of the tour, and you can buy t-shirts of it.

In the event, they didn't start until 8.20. It's easy to tell when they're about to come on - they obligingly ratchet the music that's being played up to something just below "deafening". And fair play to the crowd around me.. they were up and jumping as soon as there was something to jump about. See now, this is why I choose my locations carefully, and why I love Amsterdam - never mind that we were stuck in a corner, never mind that they were a bit older. They know what's important, and they know how to behave at a major rock event.

Well then, what was the concert like? To begin, apologies for the lack of pictures. To be fair, there hasn't been anything outside the venue worth photographing - I'm in the industrialised outskirts. And inside, my phone camera wouldn't do it justice anyway.. that vidi-wall is absolutely spectacular, and these are the best visuals I've ever seen at a show - but my phone camera is terrible at photographing light effects. But hey, loads of people around me were photographing and filming.. it is not hard to get footage of U2 concerts, after the event. Checking the U2 forums just now, I see there's a lot of stuff on Twitter.. try #U2ie Tour.

Bono fooled us all by arriving from the opposite end of the room to everyone else - mind you, the fact that they were keeping a path clear was a dead giveaway. Sadly, a mooted flashmob, where people in the stands were supposed to hold up cards with the colours of the Dutch flag, was a damp squib - I only saw the red ones displayed, and none at all were provided for my section! Here's the setlist, for those interested:

1. The Miracle (Of Joey Ramone)
2. Out of Control
3. Vertigo
4. I Will Follow
5. Iris (Hold Me Close)
6. Cedarwood Road
7. Song for Someone
8. Sunday Bloody Sunday / /Johnny Comes Marching Home (snippet)
9. Raised By Wolves / Psalm 23 (snippet)
10. Until The End Of The World

iNTERMISSION

11. Invisible
12. Even Better Than The Real Thing
13. Mysterious Ways / Burning Down The House (snippet)
14. Elevation
15. Two Hearts Beat as One
16. Every Breaking Wave
17. October
18. Bullet the Blue Sky / 19 (snippet)
19. Zooropa
20. Where The Streets Have No Name / California (There Is No End To Love) (snippet)
21. Pride (In the Name of Love)
22. With or Without You

23. City of Blinding Lights
24. Beautiful Day / I Remember You (snippet)
25. Mother And Child Reunion (snippet) / One / Invisible (snippet)

They started hard and fast, got us moving with a few. Then had a bunch of songs based on personal, teenage experiences at home in Dublin. This was where the vidi-wall started to come into play, with some really moving home movies of Bono's mother, who - as he reminded us - died when he was 14, which had a huge impact on him.

Sunday Bloody Sunday focussed on victims of the war in Syria. And, as promised, we got a bit of the history behind Raised By Wolves, whose topic is the Dublin & Monaghan bombings of 1974. The "iNTERMISSION" is hardly recognisable as one - a recorded remix of The Fly (emphasis on the drums) plays while the traditional word display associated with it is played on the vidi-wall.

After the intermission, they start with the one song I meant to revise and didn't - Invisible. The second part of the show is much more mutable than the first - expect the greatest shake-up here. This was also when Bono started pulling people up on stage - the girl he pulled up for Mysterious Ways danced so well with him that he wanted to keep her on for a special video piece - but it seems it would've been too complicated, so he gave her a hug and a kiss and let her back. They played Two Hearts Beat As One, which - as he remarked - they've only played a couple of times live. Apparently it was a birthday request.

Musically, the highlight of the show for me was Every Breaking Wave, which they're playing as an acoustic version, and which I think is absolutely beautiful! The haunting October leads into their angriest song, Bullet the Blue Sky, and both are dedicated to the Syrian refugees. Bono is absolutely scathing about Europe's handling of the crisis, culminating in a mock-up of the EU flag (yellow stars in a circle on a blue background), but in this case formed by people in yellow jackets, floating in a circle, face-down in a blue sea. And surprise, surprise - it's Banksy's doing! The phantom artist strikes again.. Bono tra-la'ed an ironic version of the Ode to Joy, the EU anthem, over that. As he says, a European Union that can't handle this is no union at all.

Later, the second audience member he dragged on stage had a great time - cavorted with Bono, slapped the others on the shoulders, ran around the stage waving to the audience. Well hey, having that happen is marginally more likely than winning the lottery, so kudos to him for making the most of it!

In all, they gave us 2 hours and 20 minutes of the most incredible music, the most incredible visuals, and we had the most enthusiastic crowd. Now, to all those people who've questioned the wisdom of me going night after night.. just like a U2 album, a U2 concert merits an extra viewing. Or several. It is SO worth it! And I am so looking forward to seeing how the next concerts compare.

When I finally got back to Sloterdijk Station last night, I raided the excellent vending machine. And then I saw a fast food place still open! Oh, deep joy.. what's more, if you didn't fancy queueing, they had stuff in a kind of vending machine to the side - put in the coins (no change given), open the drawer for the burger or roll you want. And a burger has never, ever tasted so good.. think I'll drop by there on my way to the concert later.

It ultimately went too late to blog, if I wanted to be up for breakfast - and I wearily dragged myself to bed. A word of caution - if you ever find yourself staying here, bring earplugs - it's right beside both a Metro station and a mainline station, and even on the seventh floor, and with double glazing, the nonstop intercity trains are really loud. As I told Expedia, who were anxious to know how I was getting on. But the bed was the most comfortable I've had in an age, and I had a choice of "firm" or "soft" pillows - I chose soft - and I slept deeply.

Breakfast is continental - no fruit whatsoever! but bread rolls, croissants, bread and a toaster, cold sliced meats, two types of mini muffin - chocolate chip and chocolate-chocolate chip. They had six kinds of cereal, so I treated myself to Frosties. Initially, I didn't see the apple juice, so poured myself a glass of orange juice - they also have pineapple. As for spreads, they have marmalade, and "butter" that's really vegetable oil spread, and icky.

And here I am and it's nearly lunchtime, and sunny today. But you know, I've done my sightseeing in Amsterdam, and anyway I'll be staying closer to town when I come back for the weekend concerts. I'll head out soon for lunch, and maybe venture a bit further afield - my travel is paid for, after all. Tonight is the second concert, and as I say, it'll be fascinating to see what's different and what's not. I fly back tomorrow, and doubtless crash.

And, of course, Irish U2 dates have now been announced and go on sale on Monday - presale starts tomorrow, but only for those registered in Ireland. Of all the times for me to be living in the UK! Well, I can try.. for those not registered in Ireland, but eligible for presales, they start on Friday afternoon. Cue a late lunch for me..

On Friday evening, I'm off to see Much Ado About Nothing, at the Globe. (Now, that is worth dragging myself along to!) Lucky the proposed Tube strike was cancelled though, or it'd have been impossible. Anyway, I was too late to book with the Let's Do London - for less! Meetup group, who are going the same night: but I've arranged to meet them, to go to the pub after. For the show, I got a ticket in the "Gentlemen's Box"..
..and then on Saturday, I'm back to Amsterdam again, for two more U2 concerts (Saturday and Sunday). As I say, I've been to Amsterdam before, to see them, and seen pretty much enough of the place, so didn't want to stay the whole week. I fly back on Monday, my U2-ing done.. for this month. ;-)

On the 15th, 16th, and 17th, I have Meetups.. For Tuesday 15th, I discovered there's a Hammersmith and Fulham Amnesty group, who that night have a talk entitled Undercover - the True Story of Britain's Secret Police. And I'm going. On Wednesday 16th, I'm (nominally) joining the London European Club, who are off to see John Doyle, at the Irish Centre. And on Thursday 17th, I'm (nominally) back with the Free London Events and Talks group, who are off to the Scoop, where they show free films in September. Weather-dependant. That day, it's Selma, which I haven't seen. And then it's back to Ireland yet again - I go every two weeks..

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