I had great fun today trying to figure out how to get there. Google Maps suggested the Tube as one of my options - Tube to Putney Bridge and it's a 10-minute walk. Alternatively, there were three buses I could take. The Tube sounded like the best option - no longer than the others, and no traffic woes to contend with. The only problem was - I had never been around the area, and had to figure out my walk. After careful study of Google Maps, I thought I knew the way, and I was set.
I had some delays in setting out. Among other things, I realised I had printed out the wrong email, and had to set up my printer at home and print out the ticket! So I was later in leaving than I intended. Then my Tube was delayed - person under the train. Happens a lot. Anyway, it finally came, - no indicator on that platform - and the sign assured me that I was only 7 minutes from Putney Bridge. The Tube was crammed - most passengers, fortunately, got off at the next stop, Fulham Broadway. It occurred to me that I was wise not to take the bus - the traffic would have been horrendous.
Then, when I finally alighted at Putney Bridge, it took me some minutes just to get out of the station, with the crowds. So much for Google Maps telling me to take Exit 1 - there was only one exit that I could see! Luckily, it was the one I hoped for. I knew I had to head right for the main road, and so I managed that, crossed, and headed to the left, past All Saints' Church, through the big gates that lead to Bishop's Park. You see, Fulham Palace was once the residence of the bishops of London. Although I knew I'd be slightly late, I also knew that was just for the sherry reception, which I could afford to miss a bit of. So I allowed myself the luxury of some photographs: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10203910970158930.1073741843.1361836980&type=1&l=fa9bdff5e8
It turned out, despite my misgivings, to be quite easy. I continued along that road until it curved to the right, and there was the main gate to the palace. There was a sign indicating which direction to go in for the Friends of Fulham Palace event. Well, that was the first I'd heard of them, but I figured that was the event I was headed to. The sign said to go through the Tudor courtyard. When I got there, another sign said the courtyard and great hall were closed for the day for a private function - I guessed that was my event, too!
When I entered, a lady in a 19th century servant's outfit directed me to Bertha, who had the list of names. She also explained that there was sherry - I'd heard something about that already - and that two wings of the palace were available to us to explore. So first I headed to Bertha, who had all our names, in beautiful calligraphy, which she blithely crossed off when we arrived. I then headed in and had a glass of sherry. Not mad about it, but what the hey. I explored the side passage, which led, with some artfully staged decorations and sound effects reminiscent of the play we were about to see, to the chapel, where the sound of an organ could be heard. Then I explored in the other direction, and found a darkened room, where the promotional film was playing on loop. Finally, I discovered that, for once, the cloakroom was free - it took the form of a rail of coats in the entrance hall, where I deposited mine with relief. Programs were free too, and inventively constructed.
We eventually took our seats in the great hall, maybe 10 minutes late. There were a couple of rows of seats, and I overheard someone remark to her companion that she supposed she didn't want to sit in the front row, anyway! I take completely the opposite view - I love being close to the action, and hate being separated from it and having to peer around people's heads. So I sat, happily, in the front. The seats were quite comfortable, I'm pleased to say. And the front row was quite close to the action.
Hedda Gabler is a play about a woman who, returning from honeymoon, has already realised she made a mistake in marrying this man. He's just gone and bought this mansion for them, which they can't afford, because he thought she wanted it. Actually, she just mentioned it in passing, and can't stand the place. Neither can she stand his relatives, to whom he's very close, or his old flame, whom she bullied when they were in the same class in school. Mind you, she has a couple of old flames herself - and that's when things start to get messy..
It really does make a difference to have a play staged in a large house akin to the one it's set in. The acoustics are great, and it gives a lovely setting for the ladies' sweeping gowns. This is a powerful and dramatic version. The main character has been represented in many different ways - sometimes as a brave heroine, combatting social mores. In this, she's a cruel, scary, bitch. The actor playing her speaks haltingly and maintains a creepy, frozen expression throughout most of the play. Various of the characters are obviously scared of her. Kudos to the cast and crew - the main actor is also the creative director - for a terrific version! Mind you, I did worry a bit about the wooden screen that separates the great hall from the entrance hall. There was a lot of coming and going through the door in that screen, and some banging of it. The door is about 500 years old.. and the whole screen shook at one point! So I worried.. but it hadn't yet fallen down by the time I left. Highly recommended, but only running until Saturday. Booking required.
By the time I left, it was dark, and, predictably, the park was shut for the night. So I had to go round the other way. I walked for a bit, unsure of my exact location and still looking for the Tube station, but when I eventually came to a bus stop, I thought I was as well to wait there for a bus, it'd be faster. I checked the routemap, and all three buses stopped at the stop local to my house! Wasn't long before a bus came, and soon after, I was home.
Back to Ireland for the weekend tomorrow. The provisional plan for Monday is to go see an Indian film called The Lunchbox, which looks quite good. Then I'm in the Guildford office on Tuesday, and won't schedule anything for that day - I'll be too tired.
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